The Castle of Rocchetta Mattei: History, Legends and Curiosities

The Castle of Rocchetta Mattei is one of the most fascinating and mysterious places in the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines, a site that encompasses centuries of history, unique architecture and legends that fuel its charm. Located in the municipality of Grizzana Morandi, in the province of Bologna, the castle is not only a historical residence but also a testimony to the creativity of a man who, in the 19th century, sought to build a ‘house of the future’. In this article, we will explore every aspect of this fascinating castle, from its history to the legends surrounding it, from historical curiosities to the architectural details that make it a truly unique place.

The most fascinating and bizarre castle is in Italy and it is Rocchetta Mattei. It is located in the heart of the Tuscan-Emilian Apennines. Travelling along the state road called the Porrettana, which ends up near Bologna, at a certain point you are confronted with a spectacle that you certainly do not expect. In the centre of a small valley, on a small hillock, there is a castle that as soon as you see it seems to have come straight out of a fairy tale.

It is a 19th-century castle that weaves together many different styles, from medieval to Moorish, with an infinity of towers, large and small, all different, stained-glass windows, Arab-style windows, multicoloured spires and golden domes. Whichever way you look at it, it is always different and feels like not one but a hundred castles.

Fortunately, it is now possible to visit this marvel that has been restored (still not completely, unfortunately), leaving the original features intact, and it is a visit I highly recommend. You will be amazed by the labyrinth of rooms, one more colourful than the other, towers and stairways, passages outside and the beautiful church that was designed on the model of the Cathedral of Cordoba in Spain. There is even an inner courtyard, called the Lion Courtyard, which mimics the courtyard of the Alhambra in Granada.

The History of Rocchetta Mattei Castle

The Castle of Rocchetta Mattei was built in 1850 at the behest of Cesare Mattei, an exceptional yet controversial character. Mattei, born in Bologna in 1809, was a doctor and inventor with a great passion for natural medicine and spirituality. His ideas, often bordering between science and mysticism, led him to develop a remedy that he called ‘Elisir Mattei’, a natural medicine that he claimed would cure various illnesses.

Mattei bought the medieval fortress of Rocchetta, an ancient defensive outpost that stood on a panoramic hill in the municipality of Grizzana. He decided to turn it into a personal residence that would reflect not only his eccentric and innovative spirit, but also his beliefs on medicine and mystery. The result was a fascinating castle, rich in symbolism and architectural elements ranging from medieval to Renaissance style, but with a touch of esotericism that makes it unique.

Cesare Mattei created a building that not only met his practical needs but also sought to reflect his philosophical and medical system through its layout, symbols and decorations. The castle became a true ‘alchemical house’, a dwelling that was also a centre for the study of natural sciences, a research laboratory and a meeting place for those who shared his convictions.

Cesare Mattei was born in Bologna to a wealthy family and pursued a political career, he was also one of the founders of the Cassa di Risparmio in Bologna. He was made a count by Pope Pius IX for donating land in the Comacchio area that would help the papal state stop the Austrian advance.

The turning point in his life came when his mother died after years of unspeakable suffering from cancer. After this he left politics to dedicate himself to the study of medicine and retired to the Vigorso estate to study new cures that would be more effective in illnesses like his mother's.

In 1850, he bought the land where the ancient fortress of Savignano stood and in November of the same year began work on the castle that he would call Rocchetta, where he settled in 1859. The castle was an open building site throughout his life and even beyond as some of the work was completed by his adopted son and heir Mario Venturoli.

Going beyond the theories of the founder of homeopathy, he developed a new medical therapy he called electrohomeopathy, which made him world famous, so much so that it is still practised in some countries such as India and Pakistan. Among his patients were famous people such as Tsars and Princes. He was even mentioned by Dostoevsky in his novel The Brothers Karamazov. He was also a philanthropist in that he cured free of charge all those who came to him and could not afford the cost of his medicine, even accommodating them at his own expense.

He died in 1896 at the age of 87, and in 1906, as expressly requested in the count's will, his body was buried in the chapel of the Rocchetta church, where it still rests today.

Until 1959, the heirs continued the production and distribution of the ‘Mattei remedies’, but afterwards, for various reasons, the workshops were closed and the castle was unfortunately left to itself after it suffered a great deal of damage and looting during World War II. It was possible to visit it until the mid-1980s, after which, having become dangerous due to a very rapid decline caused by the owners' abandonment, it was closed to the public.

Towards the end of the 1990s, the local population, tired of seeing the castle in such disrepair, created the committee ‘S.O.S.. Rocchetta', which set itself the goal of saving it. This struggle lasted about eight years and during this time, important repairs were made. The committee also begins to try to recover the artefacts and documents lost over the years and in 2000 an archive is founded where the found material is placed.

Finally, in 2005 the Rocchetta was acquired by the Fondazione Cassa Di Risparmio in Bologna and in 2007 restoration work began. On 9 August 2015 the castle was finally opened to the public. A good part of the castle can be visited, the medieval part is still missing, which hopefully we will be able to see soon, as the work is going on.

The castle in the 19th century

Rocchetta Mattei was built during a turbulent historical period, that of the Italian Risorgimento, when nationalist ideologies and political tensions were very strong. Despite this, Mattei was never directly involved in the political struggles of the time, concentrating instead on his medical work and research. His work and his interest in Eastern philosophies and anthroposophy led him to enrich the castle with symbols and decorations inspired by esoteric traditions from around the world.

In the years that followed, the Castle of Rocchetta Mattei became the centre of Cesare Mattei's life and activities, with a network of collaborators and people arriving from all over Italy and abroad to consult him on his medical and philosophical theories. His fame grew, even though the scientific community never welcomed him, as his practices were not based on traditional medicine.

Mattei continued to live and work in the castle until his death in 1896. After his death, the property passed through several hands, but the castle remained basically inactive and in a state of neglect for a long time. It was only in 1993 that the castle became private property and was restored, returning its historical and architectural beauty to the public.

The Structure and Architecture of the Castle

The Castle of Rocchetta Mattei is a fusion of various architectural styles, ranging from medieval to Renaissance, but with the unmistakable imprint of Cesare Mattei, who added esoteric and symbolic elements. Each part of the castle has its own history and significance.

The styles that can be found inside the castle are innumerable, ranging from medieval to neo-Gothic, Moorish to Art Nouveau. A grand staircase leads up to the inner courtyard, and even here before entering there is a bizarre mixture of styles, a Moorish-style archway and at the bottom statues of putti, busts and winged horses. From the courtyard, stairs branch off to the various areas of the castle.

There are fantastic rooms in terms of colours, finishes and upholstery. Wood was a much-used material and we find it in staircases, ceilings and in many really fine finishes. The large rooms, like the small rooms on the towers, have been restored with tapestries, floors, stained glass, and finishes that echo the style of each room, so much so that it makes us think that all that is missing is the furniture and then it could be inhabited again. And the view from every tower and window is wonderful and restful, so surrounded by greenery.

Visits to the castle are guided and the guides will tell you the story of both Cesare Mattei and the various rooms they take you to see. I was impressed by the hall of the 90, which is by the way marvellous, named after the fact that the count would have liked to celebrate his 90th birthday here together with 90 other 90-year-olds. Unfortunately for him, he was unable to celebrate as he died at the age of 87.

And this journey through alchemy and esotericism, where every room, every statue, every arch, has its own message, is really interesting. For example, they tell us of two heads hanging on a wall in the orange corridor leading to the central courtyard. The first is that of a goat and the other is that of a bearded old man. They represent the ascent between ignorance and wisdom up the steps to the castle.

But many more stories and anecdotes are told in each hall, such as the Hall of Peace, the Hall of Oblivion and the Hall of Music. Also beautiful is the Noble Staircase that you go down to exit the castle at the end of the visit. It is a visit that you will want to do again because you are left with the feeling of peace that you get when you walk that wonderful route inside a fairy tale.

Here you can find the official website https://www.rocchetta-mattei.it/ to enquire about opening days and times. Subject to the current situation.

The Lower Floor: The Medieval Body

The original castle was an ancient medieval fortress, and the lower floor still retains some features of the original structure, such as the stone walls and towers that were part of the fortress' defence system. This floor is characterised by more austere and functional spaces, reflecting its original function as a fortress.

The Piano Nobile: Cesare Mattei's Residence

The piano nobile of the castle is the part that Mattei renovated and enriched with his personal vision. Here are elegant and luxurious rooms, decorated with mosaics, frescoes and stuccoes reflecting his spiritual ideas. In particular, the use of alchemical and astrological symbols is very evident, with references to different cultures and esoteric traditions, from the Jewish Kabbalah to western astrology, from Greek mythology to eastern philosophies.

The Castle Chapel

One of the most fascinating elements of the castle is the Chapel, which Mattei had built inside his castle. The chapel is not a traditional church, but rather a place where Mattei practised his rituals, where he celebrated his spiritual vision and tried to combine natural medicine with metaphysics. The chapel is decorated with esoteric symbols and an impressive barrel vault that seems almost suspended in time, a tribute to mystery and sacred art.

The Tower and the Panoramic Terrace

The castle tower is one of the most iconic parts of Rocchetta Mattei. From it you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the surrounding hills and the landscape of the Bolognese Apennines. The panoramic terrace is the ideal place to admire the horizon and understand the significance that Cesare Mattei attributed to his castle as an observation point that was not only physical but also spiritual.

The Legends of Rocchetta Mattei Castle

The Castle of Rocchetta Mattei is shrouded in an aura of mystery and numerous legends that fuel its fascination. Some of these stories are linked to the figure of Cesare Mattei himself, while others have arisen over the centuries to feed the myth of this magical and mysterious place.

The Legend of the ‘Devil's Ladder

One of the most popular legends concerns the so-called ‘Devil's Ladder’, a small hidden passageway in the castle that, according to tradition, leads to a secret room where Cesare Mattei is said to have practised his alchemical rituals. It is said that anyone trying to climb this staircase at a certain time of night would be followed by the sound of mysterious footsteps and a feeling of coldness, as if something or someone was watching them.

Mattei's Hidden Treasure

Another legend surrounding the Castle of Rocchetta Mattei is that of an alleged hidden treasure. It is said that Cesare Mattei, during his lifetime, amassed considerable wealth through his work as a doctor and inventor, but decided to hide his treasure in the castle before he died. Some claim that Mattei left hidden clues in the castle, but to date no one has been able to find any trace of this mysterious treasure.

The Ghost of Cesare Mattei

The figure of Cesare Mattei is not only linked to his scientific and medical activities, but also to tales of apparitions. It is said that, after his death, his spirit still wanders within the castle walls. Some visitors have reported feeling a strange presence, seeing mysterious lights and hearing voices coming from the castle's empty rooms, especially on days of dense fog.

Curiosities and Useful Information on the Castle of Rocchetta Mattei

• Rocchetta Mattei is one of the most visited castles in Emilia-Romagna: every year, thousands of tourists visit the castle to admire its architecture, legends and surrounding landscape.
• Renovated in the 1990s: After decades of neglect, the castle was restored thanks to the initiative of private individuals, who breathed new life into this extraordinary structure.
• Accessibility: The castle is open to the public throughout the year, with guided tours allowing visitors to explore every nook and cranny and learn about the history and curiosities associated with the place.

Conclusions

The Castle of Rocchetta Mattei is an extraordinary place that embodies not only the story of one man, Cesare Mattei, but also a blend of mystery, art, science and spirituality. Its unique architecture and the legends that surround it make it one of the most fascinating destinations for those visiting the Apennines of Bologna. Through its towers, its esoteric symbols and the mysterious stories that inhabit it, the castle lives on in the hearts of those who visit it and in the tales that are passed down from generation to generation. If you love history, architecture and mystery, Rocchetta Mattei is definitely a place not to be missed.